Have you ever wondered why the same tea-growing region produces dramatically different flavor profiles across different eras? Why did Dong Ding Oolong (凍頂烏龍 / Dòng Dǐng Wūlóng) lean toward rich, heavy-bodied brews in some periods, yet shift toward light, fragrant styles in others? The answer may surprise you: a single judge's taste preference could steer the tea-making direction of thousands of farmers—and ultimately transform what ends up in consumers' cups.
In Taiwan's tea industry history, there's a little-known yet profoundly influential phenomenon: the chief judge's palate at tea competitions directly shapes the evolution of processing techniques. From 1976 to 1999, the Dong Ding Oolong competition in Lugu Township (鹿谷鄉 / Lùgǔ Xiāng) saw three generations of chief judges. Each transition brought subtle—sometimes dramatic—shifts in the region's signature flavor, creating what might be called a "flavor map" of Taiwan oolong's evolution.
How does one judge's personal preference ripple through an entire industry via the competition system? What tea-making innovations did each generation of judges inspire? Let's explore the hidden power dynamics behind every cup of Taiwan oolong.
The First Helmsman: Wu Zhen-duo's Authoritative Era (1976–1985)
From the 1976 spring tea exhibition through the 1985 winter exhibition, Wu Zhen-duo (吳振鐸 / Wú Zhèn-duó), director of the Taiwan Tea Research and Extension Station, served as chief judge for Lugu Township's competition teas. This was the foundational period for Dong Ding Oolong's competition system. As the highest authority at the tea research institution, Wu brought not only deep theoretical knowledge of tea science but, more importantly, represented the official government standard for oolong quality at that time.
Under Wu Zhen-duo's tenure, Dong Ding Oolong followed a traditional heavy-fermentation path, emphasizing the liquor's depth, body, and brewing endurance. Award-winning teas from this period typically showed higher oxidation levels, producing amber-colored liquor with rich, mellow sweetness and pronounced notes of ripe fruit and honey.
To align with Wu Zhen-duo's taste preferences, farmers paid special attention to fermentation and roasting control in their processing. Withering times grew longer, oxidation levels deeper, and roasting temperatures moderate but extended in duration—giving rise to the classic "red-water oolong" (紅水烏龍 / hóngshuǐ wūlóng) style that defined this era.
This processing approach not only established Dong Ding Oolong's prestige within Taiwan's tea industry but also provided crucial technical references for the later development of high-mountain oolong. Wu Zhen-duo's era laid the solid foundation for Taiwan oolong's quality benchmarks.
The Second Innovator: The Reform Era (1986–1999)
The late 1980s marked a turning point in Dong Ding Oolong's flavor direction. During this period, a new generation of chief judges brought different aesthetic standards, gradually steering the region's tea-making toward lighter fermentation and fresher aromatics.
The shift wasn't merely about changing tastes—it reflected broader market trends. As Taiwan's economy developed rapidly, consumers increasingly sought refreshing, fragrant teas that suited modern lifestyles. The new judging standards responded to these market signals.
During this transitional era, winning entries began showing noticeably lighter oxidation. Tea liquor shifted from deep amber toward golden-green, while flavor profiles moved from rich and mellow toward crisp and aromatic. The characteristic "green leaves with red edges" (綠葉紅鑲邊 / lǜyè hóng xiāngbiān) became more pronounced as fermentation was carefully controlled to preserve freshness while still developing complexity.
Farmers responded by adjusting their processing: shorter withering periods, reduced fermentation times, and lighter roasting. These changes produced more vibrant floral notes—particularly the prized orchid fragrance (蘭花香 / lánhuā xiāng)—that became synonymous with quality Dong Ding during this period.
The Third Generation: Guo Kuan-fu and the Refinement Era (1999–)
Starting in 1999, tea specialist Guo Kuan-fu (郭寬福 / Guō Kuān-fú) took over as chief judge, bringing yet another evolution in standards. Guo emphasized the unique characteristics of the Ruanzhi Oolong (軟枝烏龍 / Ruǎnzhī Wūlóng) cultivar and pushed for more precise control at every processing stage.
Under Guo Kuan-fu's guidance, Dong Ding farmers began paying greater attention to the Ruanzhi Oolong variety's special qualities. Processing techniques became more refined and precise at every stage. Dong Ding Oolong from this period shows a trend toward "refinement"—not only more nuanced in aroma and taste, but also more exacting in appearance and liquor color.
Another important characteristic of the Guo Kuan-fu era was increased emphasis on tea preservation technology. With the introduction of vacuum nitrogen-flush packaging and oxygen absorber technology, Dong Ding Oolong's quality stability improved dramatically. This also gave farmers greater flexibility in their sales timing.
The Invisible Influence of Judging Power: From Personal Preference to Industry Trend
The succession of three chief judges clearly demonstrates the profound influence of judging authority on tea-making craft. The mechanism of this influence operates quite subtly:
First, award-winning teas become benchmarks for farmers to study. When teas with certain flavor characteristics repeatedly win competitions, other farmers naturally imitate these processing methods, creating industry-wide trends.
Second, competition results directly affect tea prices. Award-winning farmers not only command higher selling prices but also build brand reputation, attracting more consumers. This economic incentive drives farmers to actively adjust their processing to meet judging standards.
Finally, judging standards influence farmers' investment decisions regarding equipment and techniques. When judges place greater emphasis on certain processing stages, farmers increase their investment in related equipment and skills, thereby driving technological progress across the entire industry.
The Era's Imprint on Processing: A Historical Trajectory of Flavor Evolution
Looking back at the influence of three generations of chief judges, we can clearly trace the evolution of Dong Ding Oolong processing techniques:
The Wu Zhen-duo Era: Heavy fermentation, deep roasting, pursuing mellow richness and sweet aftertaste. This period established Dong Ding Oolong's classic "red-water oolong" style, emphasizing body and brewing endurance.
The Transitional Era: Gradual shift toward lighter fermentation and fresher aromatics, responding to market demand for more refreshing flavors. Processing began emphasizing floral notes and crisp finishes.
The Guo Kuan-fu Era: Refined precision in processing, emphasis on cultivar characteristics, and integration of modern preservation technology. This period represents the "refinement" of Dong Ding Oolong.
Conclusion: Reading History in Your Cup
Understanding this history enriches the experience of drinking Taiwan oolong. That cup of Dong Ding you're savoring carries traces of decades-long evolution—debates about what "good tea" means, conducted not in academic papers but in the subtle adjustments of withering times, fermentation levels, and roasting temperatures.
For tea enthusiasts, this knowledge invites a more nuanced appreciation. A heavily roasted Dong Ding isn't merely "traditional"—it's a living connection to Wu Zhen-duo's era. A lighter, more floral version reflects the transitional period's influence. And today's refined offerings show how Guo Kuan-fu's exacting standards opened space for precision craftsmanship.
The next time you compare two Dong Ding oolongs with markedly different characters, remember: you're not just tasting different farmers' skills. You're tasting the accumulated influence of generations of judges whose palates quietly shaped what Taiwan oolong could become.
